|Newsletter No. 651
The 12th Kolkata Film Festival
7 to 25 November 2006
Some years ago, while sitting and talking with The
Guardian film critic, Derek Malcolm, at the Edinburgh Film Festival,
I happened to ask him which film festival he enjoyed the most. I was surprised
by his response. He said the Calcutta Film Festival. When I asked him
why, he said that the hosts were super kind and generous and that the
audiences in Calcutta were perhaps the most enthusiastic in the world.
I remembered this when Antonia Hoogewerf suggested we go to the Calcutta
Cannot sleep, so get up at 2. Slowly shower, shave, shampoo, pack. Call
Séamas and Antonia at 3.45 as agreed. Tell Séamas that I
will collect him at 4.15 and then pick up Antonia at 4.30. When I go outside
at 4, the taxi is waiting for me. When we arrive at rue Monge and rue
Lacépède, no sign of Séamas. The driver asks me to
guess where he is from and I guess correctly the first time: Lebanon.
He and I discuss the Middle East and all the forces driving and dividing
the conflicts. He is Christian. I tell him I believe in no religion. I
love life, the delightful madness of it all. Get no further in our discussion
as Séamas looms into view. Soon we arrive at rue St. Antoine. Antonia
is in high spirits and we are on our way to Charles de Gaulle airport
2 and the B.A. flight to London. Much to everyone's chagrin, we are early.
I talk with a fellow from India who lives in the 13ème arrondissement
and who is flying also to Calcutta, his home, for a short vacation. We
also meet a tall attractive blonde from Chicago named Cara who will be
flying with us to London and then on to Chicago, her home. This has been
her first trip to Europe and she has greatly enjoyed herself. There is
also a couple in the queue from Boston. I tell them that Séamas
once lived nearby and they talk
We check into the B.A. counter and
learn that there will be a departure delay and we are told there will
be no possibility of our making the connecting flight to Calcutta. The
woman at the B.A. counter insists upon sending our bags to New Delhi.
Nothing to do except go for morning coffee and invite Cara to join us.
She relates her adventures in London and Paris. Soon we are called and
are on our way to London.
Both Séamas and Antonia are
suspicious of B.A. because we do have time to make the connecting flight.
We all feel that B.A. have over-booked and that we have been bumped. We
go to a desk and make a complaint. But for now there is nothing we can
do. More coffee and pastry. Then the flight to New Delhi is called. Antonia
manages to send a message to the Fairlawn Hotel to announce our delay.
It is a fairly smooth flight. I sit alone in 29E and read The New York
Review of Books almost the entire time - dozens of articles.
We arrive about midnight, the same
time as another dozen of so flights from various European and Asian capitals.
A long queue to clear customs. Then we all acquire rupees and take a taxi
to the domestic terminal. There we rest and talk with the couple on their
way to Calcutta.
Finally about 7, we are in the air again. This time it is an Indian Airlines
flight. In the Editorial page of The Times of India, I read an
item entitled Greek God written by Moyna Rajadhyaksha about the actor,
Amitabh Bachchan being awarded an honorary doctorate by Delhi University.
She talks about a play performed by students at the university in the
60s and mentions a friend of mine, Dolly Thakore, who it seems was one
of the main characters. What a funny item to read some ten thousand meters
above Delhi on my way to Calcutta. I feel a tinge of guilt for not flying
into India via Bombay and not seeing Dolly and Alyque Padamsee. I wonder
if either of them will be at the festival. We are all completely exhausted,
but excited to be in India. Another taxi ride from the airport to the
Fairlawn Hotel in Sudder Street. Traffic is impossible. Greet Violet Smith
and Sam, Violet's manager. Antonia and I have room 17, the Shashi Kapoor
room, which we also had in February 2005. We have enough strength to have
some breakfast. Upstairs for a wee nap and a wash. Then we take a taxi
to Nandan Film Center. Begin the accreditation procedures. Meet Soumitra
Mitra, who is with the Department of Information and Cultural Affairs
for the government of West Bengal. He mentions that he knows the mime,
Partha Pratim Majumder, and greetings are passed to me. I wonder how Partha
is. It would be great to see him again. We also meet Debasish Halder and
he offers to install us tomorrow in the Bengal Club. Our car and driver
will collect us late morning tomorrow at the Fairlawn Hotel.
Back to the Fairlawn for lunch. I
walk around to Lindsay Street to see if Nilima Nag and Jhuma Das are at
the Weekender shop. I am in luck. They are both there, but Nilima no longer
employed. She has a job elsewhere. Both are surprised to see me. We giggle
and talk. Nilima reports she and her boyfriend have broken up. I tell
them that I will leave a book for them in a few days time. Leave them
and go across the street to the pharmacy for some medicine.
Drinks before dinner. Meet Avik Sen.
Then see Chiru Sur and we embrace and he introduces me to a beautiful
Bérengère, from Paris. Her family name is de Croocq. Also
meet an Axelle. Then Séamas, Antonia and I go into for dinner.
Afterwards we head for Felicity Ward's flat-warming party. She graduated
from Edinburgh University. We bond immediately. What a lovely person she
is! She introduces me to a Sarah, who also studied at Edinburgh University.
And to a fellow from Hong Kong named Alex. I tell him how I happened to
be staying some years ago in Hong Kong. Then meet Charlotte and Julian,
a young married couple from London. What a sweetheart Charlotte is with
one of the best laughs I have ever heard. I keep wanting to make her laugh.
Julian has a job in a television studio (a sound man I think), but he
is up for a job as a news reader. (Later when I see him again I learn
that he got the position.)
Very late we go out to find a taxi.
Chiru's neighborhood, so he knows where to find one. We wait a while at
a carrefour, but nothing passes. I do see two policemen standing nearby,
so I go over and give them chocolate sweets. They accept them with a big
smile and thank me. It must bring us good luck because shortly afterwards
we find a taxi and speed back to the Fairlawn and our beds.
Breakfast at Fairlawn with Antonia and Séamas. Upstairs to quickly
pack and get ready to move to the Bengal Club. The car and driver collect
us at 11.30. I pay our bill at the Fairlawn and we say our fond farewell
to Sam. Tell him that we will pass to see him and Violet many times over
the following two weeks. Our car and driver is waiting for us. The driver
is Raja. On the front and rear windows a large printed sign with our three
names in large letters announces us. Very impressive. It's a short ride
to the Bengal Club. Antonia and I quickly are assigned Room No.7 - which
is a large suite (living room, breakfast nook, large bedroom and bathroom
and a terrace over-looking a green lawn below). At first there is no room
for Séamas and after a phone call to Nandan, he is assigned Room
2. It is also impressive. We are also assigned a young lad to look after
our needs. Antonia and I have Firooz and he is a sweetheart. We both like
him. The woman at the front desk is named Audrey Gomes and I tell her
that I have a friend in Paris with the name Gomes. There are only 15 guest
rooms in the Bengal Club, so we are lucky to have secured two of them.
Later someone tells me that the British ruled India, Burma and Singapore
for 200 years from The Bengal Club.
Séamas and I go to Nandan
to try to get a film programme and other information. Not a lot of information
is available. More is expected tomorrow, when the festival formally opens.
We do get a list of parties and it seems there is one every night and
many days at lunch as well. We go to Lindsay Street and I leave a book,
White Washing Fences, for Nilima and Jhuma. Antonia earlier said
we are to join her and a friend at the roof top restaurant. I remember
the place from last year and find it without a problem. She is there with
Avik Sen. Later Bérengère and Ségolène ask
if they can join out table. Ségolène reports she is teased
a lot since her better known Ségolène was selected to be
the Socialist candidate in the 2007 presidential election in France. I
excuse myself and go to bed early. Not feeling too well. Antonia and Séamas
dine in Park Street and return to the Bengal Club late.
We elect to go to the breakfast room for our morning coffee and toast,
etc. The fellow who serves us looks like Roger Federer. We all read the
morning newspapers and begin to study the film festival brochures. Later
we go out and Antonia and I take out 200 euros from an ATM machine - which
is approximately 10,000 rupees. We make our way to the Oxford Bookshop
across the street. The Bengal Club is perfectly located - only 100 meters
or so from The Park Hotel, the Oxford Bookshop and Park Street (the main
street in Calcutta). I go up Park Street to order several pairs of reading
glasses from Lawrence & Mayo. The woman testing me discovers that
today is my birthday, but I tell her that everyday is my birthday. Séamas
and I walk to find a photocopy place, but the electricity is off, so we
must come back later. Antonia, Séamas and I purchase a few items
in the Oxford Bookshop. Back to the Bengal Club to rest. Antonia and I
have lunch at the Club and I eat one of the hottest peppers I have ever
consumed in my life. Smoke comes out of my ears. Later, Antonia's friend,
Paras Nath Dwivedi, passes and Antonia asks him to arrange our tickets
to New Delhi next Monday, the 20th. Paras is excellent at getting things
done. He will also arrange a car for New Delhi and the trip to Rajasthan.
We get a message that David Turner has arrived and is staying at the Fairlawn
Our driver takes us to Nandan for
the opening ceremonies and the screening of the film, Adam's Apples,
a Danish film. The ceremony is an hour of speeches in English and Bengali.
Among the speakers, there is Shri Gopalkrishna Gandhi, the Governor of
West Bengal, Shri Bikash Ranjan Bhattacharyya, Mayor of Kolkata, Shri
Buddhadeb Bhattacharjee, Chief Minister, West Bengal and the Director
of the Kalkota Film Festival, Nilanjan Chatterjee. All very pleasant.
The film itself is a so-called black comedy. It is very subtle and I find
that I am enjoying it. There is a woman sitting in the row in front of
us. Her name is Luisa Prudentino. She is from Italy but lives in Paris
in the 13ème. She speaks Chinese and is looking after the Chinese
film-makers at the festival. She is also staying in The Bengal Club. Afterwards
there is a fellow sitting along the same row down from us and learn that
he is from Poland. I want to ask him about Krzysztof Zanussi, but do not.
Later that evening, I learn it was Zanussi. He and I were on an Edinburgh
Festival jury together back in 1989 and we gave the First Prize to an
Indian film entitled Piravi, directed by Shaji. It would be great to meet
him one day. And I would like to see the film again.
Meet David Turner in the interval
and tell him about the party at the Rotari Sadan, a short walk from Nandan.
After the film screening a bunch of us walk around together. Dive into
the room and start talking with people. One of the first people I meet
is a fellow named Hajo Schomerus. He is from Köln and he is the cinematographer
for a film entitled Magic Eye. It is an Albanian/German co-production.
Talk briefly with Tivi Magnusson, the producer of Adam's Apples.
Congratulate him on the fine film. People are handing me food and drinks.
I decide to go out to the garden in the back. Join a queue and talk with
a Times of India journalist. His name is Ashok Chatterjee and we
exchange email address information. We have a nice talk in the queue.
But when I go to find a place to sit down, I lose him. Never see him again
the rest of the night. Nor the rest of the festival. Join a table and
meet Marcin Oginski, from Warsaw, who tells me he has two films here.
I promise to see them. (Alas, never manage.) Tell him that I made a Guide
Book to Poland. Tell him about Stash Pruszynski and how he managed to
board a train at Warsaw Central Station in the late 50s and travel to
Paris without a ticket, passport or money. Suggest to Marcin that he dine
in Stash's The Radio Café in Warsaw and give Stash my best wishes.
Tell him about my many trips to the Warsaw "Jazz Jamboree" in
the 80s. Also meet a fellow from Berlin, Thorsten Trimpop. He has directed
a film here entitled The Irrational Remains, his debut feature
film. Arne Birkenstock, also from Köln, has a film here entitled
12 Tangos - Adios Buenos Aires. Tell everyone at the table about
the film I saw in Edinburgh entitled Black Sheep. And no one has
seen it or heard of it. I spot David Turner circulating and talking with
everyone. He tells me that he has managed to meet someone who has promised
to get him a Delegate's pass. Good for David. (And he succeeds and ends
up seeing four films every day.)
Near the end of the evening
meet Susan and John Mantosh. Antonia and I talk with them and we like
them immediately. John says that he and Susan will be hosting the closing
party on the 17th and it sounds like it will be wild. (And it is!)
I elect to have an early night
but Antonia and Séamas decide to continue. Very late Antonia comes
upstairs to get me out of bed. She wants me to go down to the restaurant
in the Bengal Club and celebrate my birthday with Chiru, Bérengère,
Abhijit Bose, and a woman named Ruma who is a friend of Chiru's and who
is, I think, a journalist. After we close the restaurant, we move back
to our suite and continue. Mr. Bose was once married to a great beauty
from Istanbul. Alas she recently re-joined her ancestors and is buried
in Istanbul. Mr. Bose is the Honorary Turkish Council General in Calcutta.
He tells us he has three beautiful daughters and that he, too, wants to
be buried in Istanbul next to his wife. Very late everyone leaves and
Antonia and I fall into our beds.
Up at 9. We elect to have our breakfast in our rooms. I order bacon and
eggs, toast and jam, coffee and fresh juice. The newspaper, The Statesman,
is delivered to our room. Now we have to study the film schedule and decide
which films we will see. There are so many to choose from.
Antonia and I drive to the Oberoi
Grand Hotel to leave a note of welcome for Stanley Cohen. He arrives from
Bombay today about Noon. Antonia arranges for a car and driver to pick
him up at the airport. We purchase some medicine from the pharmacy in
Lindsay Street and then head for the Calcutta Club where we have been
invited to lunch. Our host is The Eastern India Motion Picture Association.
I meet R.H. Kampani and his two sons. One son, Bhavesh, is in the travel
business. They seem to be our hosts. And thank them for the warmth of
their hospitality. Talk with Ignacio Ortiz, from Mexico, who says he has
a film here at the festival. Meet a Cuban director, Juan Carlos Creamata
Malberti, and tell him that Pablo Armando Fernandez is an old friend since
the early 60s and that I have co-published a book of his poetry (with
Howard Aster's Mosaic Books) entitled Parables/Poems. Tell him
that I will try to see his film, Viva Cuba!, but alas I fail to
do so. Talk with Sibel Guvenc, from Toronto. She has directed a short
film entitled In the Penal Colony, based on Franz Kafka's short
story. Tell her about the two Kafka productions I produced in London in
the 60s - one with Tutte Lemkov and one with Steven Berkoff. Not sure
if I tell her that I know a relative of Kafka's, Eski Thomas, the wife
of the film producer, Jeremy Thomas. (Alas I fail to see Sibel's film
as well. Later we exchange email messages and she promises to send me
a DVD of her film.) Talk with Subhasis Mukherjee, who is the coordinator
of the oldest film society in India, based here in Calcutta. He invites
me to the opening film in the Globe cinema tomorrow. Meet a director from
Germany who has a film screening this afternoon in Nandan 1. Her name
is Britta Sauer and the film is called Love Games.
Antonia and I decide to see Love
Games in Nandan 1. It's a bizarre film, but I enjoy it. We spot Chiru
Sur and the lovely Bérengère in the cinema.
Later in the afternoon, we
drive to Sudder Street and check our email in the cyber café. I
have more than 50 messages. Many people send me "Happy Birthday!"
email messages. Thanks, gang.
Taxi to Nandan and see the end of
an Indian film and 80% of a Mexican film. The Mexican film is called Mezcal
and is directed by Ignacio Ortiz. I like the film, but the cinema is so
cold that I am forced to slip out. Find a taxi and ask the driver to take
me to Park Street. By chance, see a sign The Kenilworth Hotel and ask
the driver to stop. The party tonight is at another Kenilworth Hotel down
the street. But I do meet, David Purdey, the proprietor, and we talk briefly.
Later I learn from Antonia that they are friends. Walk a hundred meters
down the street to the new Kenilworth Hotel. And another party. Meet the
host, Mr. J.K. Sen, who is in the jewellery business and who is a film
lover. Talk with a fellow named Dibyendu Chakraborty about the film festival
and the wonderful hospitality that is so freely given to all the Delegates
every day and every evening. I am introduced to Gaurav Dutt. He is Special
Inspector General of the West Bengal Police. He is a lively character.
He introduces me to a bunch of Bombay film people. One of the women is
a great beauty and we talk for a while, but I never learn anyone's name.
Nevertheless I invite them all to come and dine when they are next in
Paris. Soumitra Mitra introduces me to his son, Souparno and says that
we are all invited on Saturday night to see a theatre performance. Souparno
will drop off information for us at The Bengal Club. I also learn that
his son will go to a school in England very soon. The photographer, Prashant
Arora, who took lots of photographs at the Calcutta Club luncheon now
shows me the photographs and asks me to sign the ones he took of me. It
is another delightful evening with lots of delicious food, plenty of drink,
and many warm, friendly people.
Late sleep-in. Get up at 11. I go to Nandan alone and meet Alekandra Biernacka
and we have a simple lunch in the Delegates Lounge. She is with Polish
television in Warsaw. I tell her how much I like Warsaw and Poland. Later
I see the Zanussi film, Persona Non Grata. I like it I am pleased
to say. Straight forward story-telling. Also meet and talk briefly with
Rosa Carrillo from Mexico City. And we exchange addresses.
Arrange to meet Stanley in the Delegates
Lounge and kick myself for not making it the steps of Nandan 1. But all's
well that ends well. We find each other and I take him to meet Debasish
Halder to get his Delegates Badge and his press information. Stanley tells
me about his adventures in Bombay. Just as we are finishing, a young couple
arrive in the office to get registered. They are from Mexico. Gustavo
Loza is the director of the film, To the Other Side. His attractive
girlfriend is called Carolina Coptel. I promise to see his film. (And
Antonia and Séamas have gone
to have tea with Sona and Saugata Banerjee. I wish that I could have gone
with them because I enjoyed meeting Sona and Saugata recently in Paris.
But I am badly organized. I think Stanley would have enjoyed meeting them
as well. Stanley and I go to see the end of the film, 7 Colours
in Nandan 3. We stay in the same cinema to see the documentary, Nazi
Gold in Argentina. Chiru Sur and Bérengère join us.
It is an amazing documentary. Maybe a bit over the top.
The Saturday Club party tonight. Our
hosts are Sadhana & Shanti Aggarwal. Meet and talk with Zanussi about
our jury duty in Edinburgh.
Later in the evening sit and talk
with Nilanjan, the Director of the Kolkata Film Festival, about this year's
festival and next year's. Tell him that I would be pleased to organize
a retrospective of Dusan Makavejev's films. He suggests we stay in contact
and that I should send him some DVDs of Dusan's films. Séamas joins
us. We talk about the Berlin, Cannes and Edinburgh Festivals. Séamas
also promises to send tips and suggestions to him.
The Polish film, Solidarity, is at 9.30 this morning, but I cannot
get into action to see it. Still I do remember my first visit to Poland
in October 1981 and the excitement in Warsaw in those dramatic days. When
someone in Solidarity heard that I was driving to Prague (with Katherine
Hilliard and Danial Topolski), we were asked to deliver a letter to Havel.
And we did it!
But do manage to see Gustavo Loza"s
film, To the Other Side (Al Otro Lado) at 11. Again I am pleased
to announce that I greatly enjoyed it. It is three stories shot in Mexico,
Cuba, Morocco and Spain. A simple story of poverty forcing families to
break up and the fathers "to travel to the other side" to help
feed and support those left behind. Gustavo not only directed the film,
but also wrote the story and screenplay as well as produced the film.
He did a great job. Later when I see him, give him my congratulations.
Antonia and I go to the Delegates
Lounge and have a modest lunch. The Danish producer of Adam's Apples,
Tivi Magnusson, joins us briefly. We talk about the film and where it
has been successful. It did well in Germany but not well in France. He
tells us that one of the actors in the film, Mads Mikkelsen, has a major
role in the new James Bond film that is opening world wide in the next
few days. Tivi and I have met before but I cannot remember where or when.
And I forgot to ask him
Antonia and I head for Sudder Street
and the cyber café. I have a message from Karolina Blåberg
to call John Calder in Paris as soon as possible. Go next door and call
Karolina and we speak briefly. No one answers at John Calder's number
in Montreuil. See Séamas and Marcin and go with them to see Marcin
have a second fitting for a new suit. Then back to the cyber café
and read (and erase) more email messages.
Back to the Bengal Club to shower
and rest. Paras has another meeting with Antonia. There is a party at
the Park Hotel tonight. We walk the short distance to the hotel. Our hosts
tonight are Santosh Rungta, President of the Bharat Chamber of Commerce,
and Mrs. Rungta. We are warmly welcomed when we arrive. See Stanley straight
away and Antonia suggests we go to Mainland China for a quiet meal. Séamas
elects to stay at the Park Hotel party. We three go outside and find a
taxi and soon we are devouring one of the best Chinese dinners ever. Especially
the cracked spinach. Antonia and I go back to the Park Hotel and Stanley
goes to his room at the Oberoi Grand. Most of the people have left the
party, but Antonia, John Mantosh and I have a long talk about Europe,
Poland and Krakow. I walk back the short distance to the Bengal Club,
but Antonia stays to dance the night away.
Up at 9 and have breakfast on our terrace with Antonia. The Bengal Club
is so nice I could easily imagine staying the rest of my days in our suite.
(Earlier Mr. Bose said that a friend of his did spend the last ten years
of his life in our rooms.) Try to reach Sanjeev Prakash's friends, the
Beris, because I wish to introduce Stanley to them and them to Stanley.
Call Sanjeev's cousins, Deepika & Vijay Jaidka. No luck. Talk with
Antonia and Séamas about staying here in the Bengal Club two more
days and maybe having our Sunday dinner party in our suite. An attractive
idea. I am elected to go to the administrative offices in Nandan and see
what can be arranged.
Our driver, Raja, takes me to Nandan
and I talk with Soumitra Mitra. He calls the Bengal Club and says that
if it is impossible for us to stay longer at the Club, he will fix us
up somewhere nice. That we are not too worry. I also promise to see Soumitra
perform in Brecht's The Good Woman of Setzjuan this Saturday night.
In the drive back to the Bengal Club, our driver tells me his daughter
is 1 years old today. I pass 1,000 rupees and tell him to buy a present
for her from the three of us. Report the good news to Antonia. She goes
out to have her hair washed. I sit in the Club's library and read Indian
news magazines. At 1, return to the room and meet Antonia and Stanley.
They discuss travel plans after Calcutta. I call Rajiv Beri and make plans
to meet him tomorrow morning with Stanley.
Downstairs at the reception desk,
Madame Gomes gives me good news. We can stay at the Club until Monday,
but we might have to change rooms our last night. Séamas can also
stay, but will be moved upstairs to another room. Stanley, Antonia and
I have a quick lunch Flury's a very nice restaurant in Park Street. Then
he and I walk to collect my glasses. One pair is ready. Back to the Bengal
Club and we take our car to Nandan to see the film from Venezuela entitled
The Caracazo. It is a "dramatized documentary" about
riots in Caracas and around the country in 1998 (I think). A very curious
film. Very pro-Chavez. The film is directed by Roman Chalbaud and he and
I talked briefly at the Calcutta Club. I sit next to a doctor who is a
local cinephile and he and I chat about the festival and the films we
have seen and liked and not liked. He is very well informed.
We drive to Chaplin Cinema and I drop
Stanley off at his hotel. The film, The Irrational Remains, is
running when I get into the cinema. It is about young people wanting to
escape the DDR when the wall was still up and there was an East Germany.
I like it, but it is difficult to follow because I have missed the beginning.
Slip out. See the young woman from Canada who made the Kafka film, Sibel
Guvenc, and she tells me that Antonia and Séamas are upstairs sitting
in the front row. Go back upstairs and sure enough, they are there. We
agree to meet at the Fairlawn at 6 for tea.
I walk to Sudder Street and check
more email messages. Walk across the street to the Fairlawn and sit with
Avik, Bérengère and a fellow named Jim (who is a clergyman
from Seattle). Talk with them a bit about urban life and religion. Bérengère
has lost her return Air France ticket and it seems she cannot get another.
A long complicated story involving her father who is an Air France pilot.
(Later I learn that her father sends her money to fly to Paris.) Antonia
and Séamas arrive and report they liked Thorsen Trimpor's film,
The Irrational Remains, about the young kids desire to escape the
DDR. The 12 Tangos film was not shown as announced, but will be
screened on Friday afternoon.
I suggest we go to the Bengal Club
because Paras will be waiting. And sure enough he is there when we arrive.
In our room, Paras and Antonia make elaborate plans that involve Stanley.
Then Stanley telephones to say he will make his own arrangements. Paras
agrees to go suit shopping with me tomorrow afternoon. Antonia will come
with us. Paras departs and Antonia has her daily bath.
The Biddhannagar Film Society hosts
tonight's party at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. It is another glorious affair.
We meet a poet, Lomak Das. He is from Calcutta and a delightful fellow.
I also meet a film-maker, Jibanananda Sabbaghern (I think) and she asks
me to see her film, Portrait of a Cinematographer, tomorrow at
18.30. (I want to see it, but in the madness of so many films and so much
to do, I fail to find it.)
Stanley will be picked up at 10 by Rajiv's driver. They will then collect
me and we will drive to their gallery, Sanskiti, in Alipore Road. I am
up at 8.30 and have breakfast alone. Read The Statesman and there
is an article about a book launch for William Dalrymple's The Last
Mughal at the Taj Bengal about the life and times of Bahadur Shah
Zafar. This must have been a glorious evening. Damn. It would have been
great to have attended.
Stanley arrives and we ride in the
bright morning sunshine to meet the Beri brothers and to see their collection
of contemporary Indian paintings and sculpture. After the introductions,
we talk about Sanjeev Prakash. It is Sanjeev Prakash who introduced us
last February, 2005. Then a long tour around the gallery. Stanley sees
five paintings he likes. Sanjeev Beri's wife, Ambica, arrives and she
seems to be the best informed. She and I did not meet last year because
she was in New Delhi. Rajiv's son, Rajat, appears, but his second son,
"Pops" is still in bed.
Then it is back to the Oberoi Grand.
We meet Antonia and have a modest meal by the pool. Afterwards Paras takes
us to a tailor he knows in Grant Street. I get a suit and two shirts.
Stanley gets two shirts. Then Antonia and I go to the cyber café
and check email and there is a panic message from Karolina Blåberg
telling me to call John Calder in Paris. Call Karolina in Paris and she
gives me John's telephone number. I dial the number, but no one answers.
Drinks in the Fairlawn with Avik,
Bérengère and Jim, the clergyman from Seattle. Jim flies
home to Washington state in the wee hours.
Later go to Nandan 1 with Antonia
and we see the short film, Exoticore. A very bizarre short film.
The main feature that follows is Black Swans. A handsome boy and
a pretty girl meet on a beach in Southern Spain. Instant erotic passionate
love. It can only end badly. So Antonia and I slip out and return to the
Bengal Club. Later I am told it does end badly.
There is a party tonight at the Taj
Bengal Hotel. Encounter a fellow with a young girl when we arrive. I ask
if he is one of the hosts and he replies in the affirmative. I thank him
for his kindness. He asks me where I am from. I reply that I live in Paris.
His young daughter smiles and says that she loves Paris, that they were
recently there. His name is Gautam Halder and he is a film-maker. I give
them a copy of the Chicago Tribune article and invite them to dine
when they are next in Paris. He gives me his card and welcomes me to Calcutta
and to the party tonight. Go and get a plate full of delicious food and
share a large table with some Russians. Chiru introduces me to a woman
named Subha. Tell her that I have a good friend in Paris named Shoba.
This Subha is a school teacher and she spent a year in America on a Fulbright
scholarship and seemed to have enjoyed the experience. We have a good
clang and spend a long time talking. Also meet her husband, Dhrubajyoti
Nandi. He is Vice President of Dunlop India.
Antonia returned to the hotel in the wee hours. I get up at 8.30 and quietly
order breakfast and read The Statesman. Our lad, Firooz, reports
he has someone ill in his family and leaves for home this morning. Antonia
and I give him a few thousand rupees before he departs. Our new lad will
be Santosh. Go out to Park Street and collect the second pair of glasses.
Check out the toy shop on the corner to see what they might have for Stanley's
son, Paul. They have some small rubber animals that I think Paul might
like. Séamas has returned to the Bengal Club. Antonia is up and
dressed. We three drive to the Oberoi Grand to collect Stanley and drive
North to College Street. Stop to show Stanley the Indian Coffee House
and Stanley jokingly says let's buy it. At least, I think he is joking.
We continue to the Star Theatre for a luncheon given by the Priya Entertainment
Group. We are greeted by a beautiful young woman in a sari who leads us
upstairs. Food is typically Bengali and delicious. Talk with one of the
hosts. His name is Mrityunjoy Chatterjee. A young journalist interviews
me and says afterwards that he would like me to come into the studio on
the weekend for a live interview. We thank our hosts and walk downstairs
but cannot find our driver.
I call John Calder in Paris. He is
rushing out the door to catch a train to London. But he says I must take
the next flight to Paris and deal with Emile-the-Rat. Call Michel Puéchavy
and he says I do not have to rush to Paris. Then Antonia and I call Jean-Pierre
Cahen and he says there is no need to panic or to rush to Paris. I begin
to feel a bit better.
Antonia and Séamas decide to
see the Spanish film, Iberia, by Carlos Saura. I elect to have
a quiet bath and will join them later.
Taxi to Nandan and go to four cinemas
looking for the Carlos Saura film. Later I learn that the screening was
cancelled and they saw a delightful film in cinema Rabindra Sadan.. I
see instead the Indian film, Kathaveseshan, in Nandan 2. We meet
in the inside lobby of Nandan 1 to see the short film, Teddy Bear, followed
by the Tajikistan/Iran co-production, Sex and Philosophy. Highly
stylized, beautiful to look at but full of hot air. And very silly.
At 8 in our own Bengal Club, there
is a party hosted by Mr. C. K. Dhanuka and Mrs. Aruna Dhanuka. When I
enter the Club, I bump into an actor from the film, Kathaveseshan,
and we speak briefly about the film. Also see Subha, the delightful woman
I met last night at the Taj Bengal party. We continue our dialogue. Stanley
introduces us to Alka Nag, a young woman who began her life in Calcutta,
then lived in Delhi for a year and nine years in Bombay. Learn that she
is a friend of Sushmita Sarmah and that she met Stanley in Bombay. She
is a film-maker and back in her home city of Calcutta to make a new start.
It is suggested that we all go to the Bengali restaurant, Kewpie's. Antonia,
Sanjeev Prakash, Martin Lehberger, Karolina Blåberg and I dined
there last year and really enjoyed it. Some of us travel in a taxi and
some in Alka's car as we drive the short distance to the restaurant. We
have the same round table as last year. Food is delicious, but much like
our lunch earlier today. This year we are Stanley, Alka, Antonia and Séamas
and myself. Later we return to the Bengal Club where the party has more
or less ended. We see Chiru Sur and Bérengère and Felicity
Ward. And join them. They all go to the Park Hotel for a drink. I go upstairs
and call Jesper, my wonderful son, in New York City and leave a message
on his answering machine. Then call John Flattau and we talk about Paris
and my legal problems with Emile-the-Rat. Then call Michel Puéchavy,
my lawyer, and he says there is no need to rush back. Earlier Antonia
and I call Jean-Pierre Cahen and he says the same thing.
Antonia returned late - again in the wee hours. She loves to stay up late.
I am up at 8 and order breakfast in the room. Read The Statesman
and have bacon and eggs, toast and marmalade, fruit juice, and coffee.
Scribble a few notes about days past and days to come. Antonia gets up
and says that she will go to the Oberoi Grand right after her breakfast
to take Stanley for a wee tour of the city. I decline her invitation to
join them. I slowly dress and contemplate the day. Séamas arrives
and suggests we go to Sudder Street to check email and to shop. Downstairs
I ask Audrey Gomes to call the tailor to see if my shirts and suit is
ready. She kindly does it and I learn that they will be ready tomorrow
at 11 a.m. as promised.
Go out and purchase a bag of animals
for Paul. Then we taxi to Sudder Street. There are email messages from
Jesper, John Flattau, Jodi Poretto in New Orleans, Dora Puszta in Budapest,
and many bookings for the Sunday dinners. We next check on shirts for
Séamas, then walk to Lindsay Street and there Séamas contemplates
buying a coat. I go into Weekender and say hello to Jhuma Das and she
introduces me to her boss. Séamas buys a new watch band and we
have a long talk with the proprietor about the need for visas when one
travels. His son lives in Nice.
We walk to the Oberoi Grand and no
sign of Stanley or Antonia. Séamas goes out to check on something
and then decides to go for a swim. I sit in the lobby and read the
Financial Times, a newspaper someone has abandoned. A group of elderly
people traveling from the U.K. hover about. A woman from the West of England
and I talk about the group of people she is traveling with. It seems there
is someone from Edinburgh in the group. So I ask that my best wishes be
passed to her.
Antonia and Stanley arrive. It seems
they had a delightful morning together. They had a visit to the Marble
Palace, which they both enjoyed. More travel arrangements are discussed.
Stanley says he needs some pajamas. I offer him a pair I have brought
with me from Paris that are too small for me. I purchased them in Edinburgh
and have never worn them. At a table next to the pool, Stanley and I have
pizzas, Séamas has a duck, and Antonia has an assortment of pakoras.
After lunch, Séamas and I walk to Grant Street to see if by chance
any of my stuff is ready to collect. No luck. We are told nothing is ready
now, that we have to wait tomorrow at 11 to pick up the things. I decide
to take a taxi to the Bengal Club and Séamas decides to go to the
I rest a bit. Antonia arrives about
16.30 and we discuss going to see the film Milk and Opium at 5.15.
But we are both exhausted, so it's decided to nap instead. I ask Antonia
to call Paras and ask him if he can bring my clothes when he comes to
see her at 7. There is a knock on the door and it is a driver taking Stanley
to the airport. He drops off a set of headphones and a book for Antonia.
Then Paras arrives with all the clothes: a new suit, four shirts (2 for
Stanley) and my own clothes I left for copying. Hooray for Paras!
Shave and shower. We drive to John
and Susan Mantosh's party at the Royal Calcutta Golf Club. We are all
supposed to be pirates tonight. John Mantosh greets us when we arrive
and a pirate hat is placed on my head. Garlands of flowers around necks.
Antonia is led away to have her hands hennaed. Séamas gets a tattoo.
Meet a fellow at the bar named Joel
Palombo, from New York City, and he has directed Milk and Opium.
Tell him that I almost attended his film earlier this afternoon and apologize
for not making it. We discuss it and he promises to have a DVD of the
film sent to the Bengal Club. (Alas it never arrives.) Meet a young couple
from America, Sam and Laura. Two newly-weds who have recently moved to
Calcutta. Meet a fellow from Calcutta who attended Boston University and
who now seems to be the Chief Customs Officer in Calcutta. Lots of people
take photographs. See lots of people I know after one week at the Festival.
Talk a lot with Lomak Das. Tonight is the last night and everyone is happy
and everyone is tired. As we are headed out to our car and the ride back
into town, John and Susan hand us gift bags. It is an extremely kind and
generous farewell. Just before we get into our car, see Dibyendu Chatraborty.
He and I met and talked at the Kenilworth party. Now we are meeting again.
He says he hopes we have enjoyed our visit to Calcutta. Yes, we have!
The 12th Kolkata Film Festival is over! It has been superb in every way.
I have enjoyed every minute. I did not manage to see as many films as
I would have liked. But I managed to meet so many wonderful individuals.
Derek Malcolm is right. It is one of the best film festivals in the world.
And so much hospitality from so many people. I hope that I can be there
again next November.
Early up and have breakfast alone once again. Antonia begins to stir at
10. We open our gifts that John and Susan gave us last night as we were
leaving. They are very kind and super generous. My bag contains a beautiful
necklace (which I give to Mary Bartlett when I am home in Paris), a purse
and a bizarre elephant. Thank you, John. And thank you, Susan. There is
a funny sms message from Stanley in New Delhi regarding the pajamas.
Séamas passes and I agree to
go with him to the Oberoi Grand at 11.30. We see Marcin in his room and
he gives us the address of a shoe shop where he purchased a pair of hand-made
shoes that he reports he finds "the best he has ever had".
Outside we encounter Gaurab Pandey
and his friend, Joanna, from Bremen. Gaurab studied film-making in Paris
for two or three years and speaks fluent French. We find the shoe shop
and Séamas cannot find a pair he likes, but I end up buying one
pair. In the taxi back toward the Oberoi Grand, we spot Paras in a car
next to us and exchange waves and smiles.
Lunch on the side of the swimming
pool in the Oberoi Grand. We are Antonia, Marcin, Séamas and myself.
Delicious. Serene. Delightful.
Check email again in Sudder Street
and no matter how many I erase, more arrive. There are 500 messages in
Tonight we dress and head North to see Soumitra Mitra perform in Angshumati,
an adaptation of Brecht's The Good Woman of Setzuan. We have allowed
plenty of time in case we get lost. I have been told the theatre is very
near the Star Theatre in North Calcutta. Traffic is impossible tonight,
but we manage to get up to the Star and are more or less on time. But
we cannot locate the theatre. Then someone tells us it is in South Calcutta.
We turn around and zoom South. We stop and ask dozens of people including
police, taxi drivers and people on the street. Now we are very late and
no idea where the theatre might be located. I feel terrible and blame
In the end, we give up and go to a
jazz concert at the Princeton Club that is sponsored by the Alliance Française.
I sit in a corner and talk with Felicity Ward. Felicity is such a lovely
person. I tell her my theory regarding one on one conversations. Then
what happens when another joins and what results when two join. I explain
my circle game to her. Later she introduces me to her friend, Lilly Peel
who is a journalist with The Statesman. Séamas talks with
a friendly looking fellow sitting next to him who is an astronomer. He
and I exchange smiles, but we never meet. His name is Dr. Debiprosad "Debi"
Duari. After the jazz ends, Chiru suggests we all go back to his home
for a drink. We (Antonia, Séamas, Sumita Basu (a BBC producer),
Felicity, Chiru, Bérengère, Lilly and Massimiliano Gattei
from Anacona, and myself) pile into our car and drive the short distance
to Chiru's apartment. Chiru shows me a copy of my book Everything Is!
that I gave him 18 months earlier. Now it has a second inscription. This
time Alyque Padamsee has written a message to me to remind me of various
past adventures. What a great character he is! It's a lovely evening and
a fitting end to the festival. But, then, we have our Sunday night party
tomorrow night in Park Street.
Lazy morning. Over breakfast, read The Statesman and a by-line
jumps out at me. An article entitled Song of the Road by a friend in Paris,
Mimlu Sen, and her life with Paban, who is a great singer and musician
in the Baul tradition. I wonder if she is somewhere in Calcutta right
now. Antonia up early and goes to a Catholic Cathedral to celebrate mass.
This morning we pack our bags and are moved upstairs to room 11. We will
miss our suite, but we have had a good run. It is more modest, but still
fabulous. We call a few people and invite them to our party tonight. It
will be once again on Sanjeev Goenka's large terrace in Park Street. The
same place as last year. Last year was a big success. Can we do it again?
Antonia and I walk down the street
to Big Max and order the food for tonight's feast. It will be Chinese.
We compliment them on the wonderful food and service they provided last
year. Then it's Sudder Street once again and the cyber café. I
manage to read all the messages in my inbox. Séamas goes out and
purchases a small bag for me. I cannot get everything into my suitcase.
We say goodbye to Sam in the Fairlawn and ask that our best wishes to
passed to Violet. Antonia will be coming back to Calcutta and will stay
a week in the Fairlawn in early December. Learn from Sam that David Turner
has moved to the YMCA Hotel. Antonia and I will walk around there to leave
an invitation for David for tonight's fête. But when we go out into
Sudder Street, lo and behold, we encounter David himself. Also tell him
that I have decided to sell my atelier. He thinks it might be a good idea.
A new beginning. Of course I go back and forth: to sell or not to sell;
to move or not to move.
Back in the Bengal Club, Paras passes
to discuss travel plans with Antonia. We learn from the Broadway Hotel
in Old Delhi that we have a double room for Antonia and myself and a single
for Séamas. That's good news. We call Nelima and tell her the good
news. Alas she will not be in Delhi while we are there. She is leading
a conference on documentary film-making and returns the 30th of November.
About 8, Antonia, Séamas and
I walk the short distance to Sanjeev Goenka's apartment. We are the first
to arrive. No sign of Sanjeev. But slowly people begin to arrive and it
is another successful Sunday night party. (I wonder how it is going in
Paris with Mary cooking and Paul performing the host's role.) So many
nice people. Julian and Charlotte. And the fabulous Felicity Ward. Soumitra
Mitra's son, Souparno, comes with a friend and we have a long talk. And
The food is delicious once again.
Wander back down the street around
midnight and fall into my bed. Antonia will come in later. She is a Night
We fly to New Delhi today. I am going to miss Calcutta/Kolkata. It is
an amazing city full of delightful individuals. I understand why so many
people fall in love with the place. Quickly pack. Give lots of rupees
to lots of people. Buy chocolate for Audry Gomes and thank her for being
so warm and kind to us three. A lazy morning. Then we are off to the airport.
The usual madness on the road. We say goodbye to our driver, Raja, and
press lots of rupees into his hands. A pretty good driver. He has taken
us everywhere we wanted to go. Maybe a bit excessive with the horn. But
to be a driver in India one needs (a) good brakes, (b) a loud horn and
(c) good luck. Still we have not seen many accidents. And drivers are
fairly tolerant of one another. No cursing of one another. No violence.
We quickly check in for our flight
with Air Sahara and go inside to wait for the call to board. Alas we are
running late. No explanation given. Finally we are on our way. We arrive
above New Delhi and are forced to circle for a while before we can land.
And then we are on the ground. We collect our checked baggage, find a
taxi and soon are speeding into Delhi. We have a date with Stanley Cohen
and Sushmita Sarmah at the Sheraton Hotel to dine in the famous Bukhara
restaurant. We ask our driver to wait for us while we quickly check into
the Broadway. We are offered a choice of two rooms: one newly decorated
and one not. We cannot stand the newly decorated one. It screams. The
undecorated one is quiet and restful. Back into the taxi and back into
New Delhi. We soon arrive at the Sheraton. We meet Stanley and Sushmita
and then the long wait begins for a table. We go for a drink and to our
horror, the bill is almost what we will eventually pay for the dinner.
When we finally do get a table, the
lamb is delicious. Well worth the wait.
Breakfast downstairs. Telephone Varun, Nelima Mathur's son, and we agree
to meet at the British Council at 13.30. I want to go to the British Council
to see if I can locate Milly Gentleman and Jo Johnson and maybe a few
other friends. Milly is the International Herald Tribune's "man"
in India. Her husband, Jo, is the Financial Times guy. I would also like
to say hello to Helen Mehta. Maybe meet Gaye Facer. I arrive at the British
Council and learn that Helen Mehta is out and will arrive about 1. Talk
to an associate of Helen's named Ann Bell. Learn that William Dalrymple
will be talking at the British Council about his new book, The Last
Mughal. On the 9th of January. Damn. It would be good to hear his
talk and to meet him again. We have a number of friends in common including
Ann and Chris Thompson in Edinburgh. And Sylvia Whitman in Paris. Go upstairs
and use a computer and find the telephone number for UNICEF. Later I manage
to call and learn that Alan Court is not there, that he has been away
for some time. No luck finding a telephone number for Milly or Jo. Call
Gaye Facer and the number I have is no longer any good. I think about
calling Sanjeev Prakash's mother and inviting her out for a meal or a
tea, but the number I have for her is no good. Helen Mehta arrives and
we meet. She is nice, but busy. She asks about Chiru and Antonia and requests
that her warm wishes be sent to them. I give her a brief report about
our activities in Calcutta. While waiting for Varun, I talk with a young
woman waiting to take an exam. Her name is Deepti and she has a job with
G.E. We have a nice long talk and then she goes in to take the exam. Varun
arrives and we drive to Khan Market in South Delhi and have a Thai lunch
in a new place called The Kitchen and catch each other up to date. I tell
him that I want to see his documentary about the taxi-rickshaws and he
promises to get me a DVD to take back to Paris. Use a cyber café
to check if I have any email from lawyers in Paris. Then purchase a New
We go to the Imperial Hotel to meet
Antonia and to have tea. Varun and I have chocolate milk shakes and they
are delicious. Later Antonia, Stanley Cohen and I have a Thai meal in
the Imperial Hotel. Antonia's new driver, Ram Vir, takes us to the airport
to collect her sister, Patricia Wheatley-Burt, and P's friend, Simon Watson,
who are flying into Delhi tonight from London. We collect them and deliver
them to the Imperial Hotel, see them into their room and then Antonia
and I ride back to the Broadway Hotel.
(At some point, I read an article
entitled The Building of New Delhi by Khushwant Singh, son of Sir
Sobha Singh, the builder credited with giving shape to much of the architect,
Edwin Lutyens' blueprints. The article is printed in Swagat, the Indian
Airlines magazine, and is taken from a speech delivered the 1st of August
2006. I had the great pleasure to spend a week with Khushwant Singh in
1962 when he attended the Edinburgh International Festival Writers' Conference
which I co-organized (with John Calder and Sonia Orwell). Later I meet
Khushwant again in Bombay when I made my first visit to India in 1977.
The first paragraph of his speech/article says a lot: "When I was
brought to Delhi at the age of three or four from my village - Hadali
- there was no New Delhi. And now, having lived here for most of the 92
years of my life, I can't find my way about the town. So that really sums
up what has happened to Delhi. The story of the building of New Delhi
starts precisely on December 12, 1911, when King George V and Queen Mary
came to Delhi
" and the capital was moved from Calcutta to Delhi.
In the same magazine, there is an article entitled, My father, my hero
by Shashi Kapoor. Antonia and I shared several days with Shashi Kapoor
last year in Calcutta when his theatre company, Prithvi, organized a tour
of India for the Footsbarn Theatre Company. About a week later we met
again in Delhi at another Footsbarn performance. Thank you, Maneesha Dube,
Managing Editor, Swagat Magazine for these two superb articles.)
At breakfast, talk with a fellow from La Rochelle in South West France.
His name is Laurent Millet and he is a film-maker. He is traveling around
India shooting with a small video camera. Later back in my room, I call
Nelima's husband, Pramod, and we discuss having dinner together tonight.
I ask if there is an Foreign Correspondents Press Association Club and
yes there is and he is a member. I ask if he can get Milly Gentleman and
Jo Johnson's telephone numbers and minutes later I am talking with them.
Learn that they have a son, William, and that their daughter, Rose, is
in top form. They ask if I would like to dine with them in their home
tonight. There is nothing I would like better. But I have agreed to meet
Pramod, Varun, Antonia, Patricia, Simon and Séamas at the Foreign
Press Club tonight for a meal. I ask them if they would like to dine with
us. They say that they will meet us for a drink. Hooray!
Séamas and I go out to ride
the metro to Connaught Place. When I was here 18 months ago, there was
only one line. Now there are three and it is continuing to expand. We
meet at Wimpy's in Connaught Place. Varun wants to see the new James Bond
film and a screening is starting in fifteen minutes at a cinema nearby.
I know that Antonia has expressed a desire to see it, so by the time we
get her on the phone and she has refused our offer, it is too late to
go to the cinema nearby. Instead we drive to South Delhi and I am terrified
by the traffic. We manage to make the screening with seconds to spare.
And to my pleasant surprise, the film is superb. No stupid car chases,
beautifully acted and directed. It is truly delightful. Then we three
have another mad car ride to The Big Chill in Khan Market where we have
three milk shakes to go. Varun finds us a taxi and we have another mad
car ride to the Broadway. Quickly wash and dress and back downstairs for
a ride to the Imperial Hotel where we collect Patricia and Simmie. Then
to the Foreign Correspondents Club of South Asia for drinks and dinner.
We find Pramod, Varun, Milly and Jo all sitting together. More delicious
talk. Then Milly and Jo slip away. The rest of us have a feast. Very late,
we leave Pramod, Varun and Séamas and we drive back to the Imperial
where we deposit Patricia and Simmie. Antonia drives me to the airport.
Warm embraces and I head inside for my B.A. flight to London and then
on to Paris. Goodbye India. It's been very nice, thank you. See you next
year perhaps. Who knows what the future may bring?
Our flight departs about 3 in the morning. I manage to get some sleep.
Not much really. But some nevertheless. We arrive about 7 at London's
Heathrow. The beautiful young woman who flew from Delhi is also flying
to Paris. We chat briefly. Her name is Iris and she is from the West of
France, but living in India. She could be a fashion model. She tells me
she has a job in fashion. She goes to Paris to get a visa for India and
then will fly back straight away to Delhi. I tell her to be sure and be
early at the Indian Embassy. Two hours later we are in the air again for
Charles de Gaulle. Sit next to an interesting Aussie, Howard Whitton from
Brisbane. He is involved in a number of global projects in an attempt
to eliminate corruption and bribery - a truly uphill undertaking. We exchange
cards. He wants to build a harpsicord and I tell him about Wolfgang Zukermann
who is living in Avignon and running an English-language bookshop there.
Taxi home. Very tired, but as always,
so good to be home. Much to be done. Today is Thanksgiving in the USA
and I will be going to Peter Cyrus' home today for a feast. Call Mary
Bartlett and Paul Allman and we agree to meet in the metro at Alesia and
ride to Peter's together. Mary, with help from Barbara Sherman and Trish
Nickell, will cook the annual Thanksgiving blast here next Sunday. And
Lenny Jensen will carve. He is an expert. Dave Szafranski will serve.
India seems so very far away and I am only back a few hours. Séamas
returns next week and Antonia in mid-December. Not sure when David Turner
will be back in Paris.
Now I have to deal with Emile-the-Rat
and fighting this crook to keep from losing everything and becoming a
pauper. We all know there is no justice in the world
83 rue de la tombe Issoire,